Spaghetti and Meatballs, with Bacon: That’s Amore

This year, supposedly, is going to be the year of the meatball. Every other food newsletter I get brings news of a new meatball-focused restaurant opening in New York, or a restaurant newly adding meatballs to its menu. Strange, I think. I mean, don’t get me wrong, I love a good meatball (and the meatball parmigiana at Frankie‘s is the best), but really? Is this a trend? I suppose it is, though it’s not like anyone’s invented the wheel here. Because who, since watching Lady & the Tramp as a child, doesn’t love a good meatball? Or, if I may remind you of that classic ditty, “On Top of Spaghetti (all covered with cheese…I lost my poor meatball…when somebody sneezed).”

You know what else isn’t a trend? Bacon. Bacon is just good. It’s like meatballs in that way. Still, I can’t help but applaud the genius of the good people over at Bon Appetit, who managed to get both meatballs AND bacon on the cover of their January issue. The recipe: Spaghetti and Meatballs All’Amatriciana, which, BA notes, is classically made with guanciale (salt-cured pig’s jowl). Here, they’ve substituted slightly more user-friendly bacon, with the traditional Italian dish supplying a nice front for what I think was pretty clearly a moment of gluttonous genius that had to be gussied up a bit with a foreign language.

Often, in the many, many bacon-heavy recipes that I’ve either cooked or eaten at restaurants, the bacon seems almost an after-thought, like a nod to a trend and a ploy for orders. Not here. Here, the basic plays an intrinsic role, yet without ever taking on the diva-esque position so typical of it. Its smoky flavor permeates both the sauce and the meatballs (it’s included in both), becoming that certain je ne sais quoi that pushes a dish over the edge into new territories of flavor. Especially, I will note, after sitting for a day, an inadvertent discovery on my part when I was eating leftovers and found them all the more smoky and amazing than the day before.

You may want to take note of this observation, not just because you want your pasta permeated with as much bacon-y goodness as possible, but because these little porkers take a little longer than you might imagine to put together. It might just be that I was really enjoying the (three) All Songs Considered I was listening to, but I don’t think so; this is not a dish that comes together in haste. It took about two hours start to finish, frying the meatballs in three separate batches. And you know what, it was worth the work. It’s a pain to get all the ingredients for the meatballs, but their flavor ended up incredibly complex; I was particularly pleasantly surprised by the cheesey aroma they gave off while frying — the caramelization of the Parmesan.

So take your time with these, maybe make them a day ahead, and make them for a special someone, or someones, as I had the pleasure of doing. Serve with garlicy garlicy buttery garlic bread and salad, and a couple bottles of shockingly decent two buck chuck (or is it three bucks now? it may still be two here in the upper midwest…).

Spaghetti and Meatballs, with Bacon

Adapted from Bon Appétit

Serves 8-10

Ingredients

Meatballs

• 6 ounces uncured applewood-smoked bacon (about 6 slices), diced
• 2 large garlic cloves, peeled
• 2 pounds ground beef (15% fat)
• 2/3 cup chopped drained roasted red peppers from jar
• 2/3 cup panko (Japanese breadcrumbs)
• 2 large eggs
• 1/2 cup coarsely grated onion
• 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh marjoram
• 2 teaspoons dried crushed red pepper
• 1/2 teaspoon coarse kosher salt
• 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Sauce

• 2 28-ounce cans diced tomatoes in juice (preferably San Marzano)
• 2 large garlic cloves, peeled
• 6 ounces uncured applewood-smoked bacon (about 6 slices), cut crosswise into thin strips
• 1 tablespoon (or more) extra-virgin olive oil
• 3 cups finely chopped onions
• 1 1/2 teaspoons dried crushed red pepper
• 2 cups dry white wine
• 1 tablespoon minced fresh marjoram

Pasta

• 1 1/2 pounds spaghetti
• 2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
• 1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh marjoram
• Freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1. For the meatballs

a. Place bacon in processor. Using on/off turns, grind to coarse paste. Transfer to large bowl. Using garlic press, squeeze in garlic. Gently mix in beef and all remaining ingredients. Let stand 15 minutes.

b. Line large rimmed baking sheet with plastic wrap. Using moistened hands and scant 2 tablespoonfuls for each, roll meat mixture into 1 1/2-inch meatballs. Arrange meatballs on sheet. (Can be made one day ahead. Cover with plastic wrap and chill.)

2. For the Sauce

a. Puree tomatoes with juice and garlic in batches in blender until smooth.

b. Cook bacon in large pot over medium heat until crisp; transfer bacon to plate.

c. Add 1 tablespoon oil to drippings in pot and heat over medium heat. Add half of meatballs (or as many as you can fit). Cook until brown on all sides, turning carefully with small metal spatula, about 9 minutes. Transfer meatballs to baking sheet lined with paper towel. Add more oil to pot if needed and repeat with remaining meatballs.

d. Increase heat to medium-high. Add onions and crushed red pepper to pot. Sauté until golden, about 6 minutes. Add wine; boil until reduced by half, stirring up browned bits, about 8 minutes. Add tomato puree and marjoram. Boil until sauce thickens slightly, stirring occasionally, about 8 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

e. Mix bacon into sauce. Add meatballs; bring to simmer. Reduce heat to low; cover and simmer until meatballs are heated through and tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Season sauce with salt and pepper. (BA doesn’t say this, but in my opinion you could also stop here a day ahead, and just make the pasta fresh for your guests.)

3. For the Pasta

a. Meanwhile, cook spaghetti in pot of boiling salted water until just tender but still firm to bite, stirring occasionally.

b. Drain; transfer to large bowl. Toss with 2 tablespoons oil and marjoram, adding more oil to moisten, if desired. Divide spaghetti among bowls. Top with meatballs and sauce. Sprinkle with cheese and serve, passing additional cheese separately.