From the Bittman: Roasted Vegetables, Thai Style

I’ve long liked Mark Bittman, both for his writing and for his approach to cooking, but I’ve only recently realized exactly what it is about his recipes that appeals to me: Their general lack of specifity.

He, like me, tends to give directions such as “cook for a while” or “add some bacon” or “stir for a while, or whatever, what do I care?”

OK, these are exaggerations, but he does emphasize the improvisational nature of cooking, which tends to get lost in a world of pre-cut, pre-measured vegetables. If you haven’t noticed, onions don’t come in 1/2 cup sizes, and I think it’s a critical part of a cook’s education to realize that recipes are guidelines, not gospel.

So when my roomate and I decided to make Mr. Bittman’s Roasted Vegetables, Thai Style, I knew we would be safe making some substitutions. And substitute we did.

I’ve reproduced the original recipe below. We did the sauce pretty much as he instructed, but took some license with the vegetables. We had potatoes, eggplant, carrots, green bell pepper, onion, and garlic, so that was what we used. We didn’t have green beans, peas, or tomatoes, so we skipped those.

I think I’m preaching to the choir by now, as I don’t think there are that many Food Junta readers who go into fits because they don’t have a shallot. But I am regularly finding that there are people who do, and I tend to blame our incredibly recipe-centric food culture.

Recipes are a great way to communicate the structure of a dish and give newbie cooks a safe starting place – you’ll notice that I almost always give recipes in the traditional format – but it’s important to remind people as often as possible that they should feel free to add, subtract, or throw the whole thing in a blender.

When I talk to people about cooking, the skill that almost everyone says they wish they had is the ability to scan the contents of a fridge and pantry and throw together a good meal. A well-stocked kitchen obviously helps in that department, but the best thing you can do to develop that ability is not to memorize recipes or take cooking classes or even – gasp! – read this blog.

The best way to become that kind of cook is to try: Experiment! What’s the worst that can happen? Wasting $10 worth of ingredients? Ordering a pizza when it’s all over? You’ll survive, and you’ll be a better cook for your efforts.

Now, with all that said, here’s a recipe. Do with it what you will.

Roasted Vegetables, Thai Style
from The New York Times

(Note: I’ve tagged this recipe as vegetarian and vegan, but be forewarned that thai curry paste may contain fish products. Be sure to check before you buy.)

1/4 cup peanut or vegetable oil
1 medium-to-large potato, peeled and diced
1 medium-to-large eggplant, diced
1 red pepper, cored, stemmed and cut into strips
1 cup peas (frozen are fine)
1/2 pound green beans, trimmed
4 peeled shallots or 1 onion, quartered
8 to 12 cloves garlic, peeled
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tomatoes, cut into eighths
1/4 cup green, yellow or red curry paste, or to taste, or 1 tablespoon chili paste, or to taste, or cayenne to taste
1 cup coconut milk
1/2 cup crunchy peanut butter
1 tablespoon soy sauce
Chopped fresh cilantro, mint and/or Thai basil leaves for garnish

1. Heat oven to 450 degrees. Place a deep ovenproof skillet or casserole over medium heat and add all but a tablespoon of oil. A minute later, add all vegetables except tomatoes; sprinkle with salt and pepper and stir. Put pan in oven and roast, stirring once or twice, for 30 minutes. Add tomatoes, stir, and continue to roast until vegetables are tender and beginning to brown, about 45 minutes to an hour total.

2. Put remaining oil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add curry paste and stir; whisk in coconut milk, peanut butter and soy sauce and bring to a simmer. Keep warm.

3. When vegetables are done, stir in coconut milk mixture. Taste and adjust seasoning, adding more soy sauce or curry paste if necessary. Garnish with herbs and serve hot or warm.